Bosnia and Herzegovina is not a wealthy country. Still marked by the aftermath of the Yugoslav War, I see abandoned buildings, plastic waste and broken roads as I drive from Split to the horse farm. While Croatia is already a member of the EU, its eastern neighbor is still fighting for admission into the European Union. When I meet my host family, however, I realize that the difficult past has not only left a deep scar on Bosnia and Herzegovina, but above all has fostered a keen eye toward the future and an incredible friendliness towards travelers. Upon arriving at the equestrian center, I step out of the car with a smile on my face, looking forward to the days ahead in the saddle!



Family means everything in Bosnia and Herzegovina. I realize this immediately when I meet my hosts. While Miro and their youngest daughter, Madja, keep me thoroughly entertained on the drive from the airport to the riding stable—making me feel like I’m returning as a long-lost friend—Mom Renata treats me to delicious treats from her own garden right after I arrive. At the riding stable, the sisters Marija and Melanie are in charge. They proudly tell me a little story about each of their horses, some of which they’ve bred themselves. When we go for a ride together in the evening, we laugh a lot, and it feels as if I’m back on one of those pony farm vacations from my childhood.

 

However, the horses at “Stina” are anything but the kind you’d find at a pony farm. The family has achieved success in show jumping and endurance riding both at home and abroad, and breeds Arabian crosses with the stamina needed for endurance rides. Marija herself worked for several years abroad at renowned equestrian stables and completed an extensive degree in equine science in Ireland. As resources allow, she continues to optimize her riding center and the training of her horses, ensuring that high-performing sport and leisure partners are available to guests. The horses live in a large herd spread across the expansive grounds. The landscape is barren, and the family relies on their own hay harvest. This species-appropriate care makes the horses lively leisure companions, ready for both a long gallop and a leisurely ride through the vast expanse of Herzegovina.
In Herzegovina, you can really let the horses run free. We ride across vast meadows and through vineyards. On my first ride, I try out the easygoing mare Aurora. She’s a sturdy Bosnian Mountain Horse, and nothing fazes her. I feel completely safe on her. For the next rides, however, I’d like a slightly livelier partner, so Marija assigns me the Arabian Spirit and the thoroughbred mix Disney to try out. Both geldings are completely reliable to handle and are a lot of fun to ride across the open terrain. They can gallop for kilometers and remain relaxed at all times, even when given a loose rein.

  

In the steppe-like western region of Bosnia and Herzegovina, meadows and fields stretch as far as the eye can see. I’m visiting in the middle of fall, so the landscape is ablaze with rich colors. The colorful grapevines glow warmly in the evening light. The forests on the rugged mountain slopes on the horizon are bathed in soft shades of red. What also catches the eye is the plastic waste piling up in places where people have been. Unfortunately, there is still no adequate solution for a recycling system in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Marija tells me that at the beginning of summer, her family roams through the surrounding fields and, through hard, collective work, collects all the trash that has accumulated around their property. They take the plastic waste across the border to Croatia, where it can be properly disposed of. They want to set a good example for their own children and for those who attend their riding school, and to foster an awareness of treating nature and animals with respect.

  

To wrap up my short trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina, we’re visiting one last hidden paradise not far from the riding stable. I’m now taking a quick drive through the area where our guests get to go on a day-long horseback tour. We visit the caves and waterfalls of Pec Mlini Park. Turquoise-blue water gently winds its way through the ruins of bygone eras in this valley. As I nibble on my wild-picked pomegranate, I enjoy the sight of this magnificent natural spectacle and hope to return soon to this forgotten natural paradise.

More information about the program: https://www.equitour.com/bossta.htm