28WashingdayinthebushOncearoundSouthAfricaThereareexperiencesthatchangeeverything.Notsuddenly,notdramatically,butquietly,deeplyandpermanently.IsabelandLloydGillespie'sjourneyonhorsebackisonesuchexperience.Over7,400kilometres,ayearandsevenmonthsonthesaddle,undertheopensky,oftenatthelimitsofourstrength,butalwaysdrivenbyagoalthatisgreaterthanourselves.WewanttoraiseawarenessaboutAfricanhorsesickness,aviraldiseasetransmittedbymosquitoesthatisoftenfataltohorses.Manyfarmerscannotaffordthevaccination.Wefamiliarisethemwithprotectivemeasuresthatdonotinvolvevaccination,suchaswind,stablehygieneandmosquitosprays.Aboveall,wewanttofindoutwhathappenswhenyoucommityourselfcompletelytoacountry,anidea,anadventureandeachother.Atthattime,Lloydisnotyetmyhusband,butmyboyfriend.Somepeoplethinkwearecrazytoembarkonsuchajourneyasanewcouple.Inaremotearea,weoncemeetanoldmanwhosaystouswithabroadgrin:"Ajourneylikethisisprobablythehardesttesttofindoutwhetheryoureallybelongtogether."Heisabsolutelyright.WestartinDurbanandridenorth,alongtheborderwithMozambique,thenwest,accompaniedbythelife-givingriversLimpopo,MolopoandOrange–linesthatseparatenotonlyaridlandscapesandcountries,butalsohabitats,storiesandrhythms.Alongthewestcoast,theroutetakesussouththroughsanddunesandvastexpansestothefoothillsofCapeTown.Thenweturneastwards,alongtheGardenRoute,thewildeastcoast,theTranskeiandfinallybacktoDurban.Everysingledayisadecision.Tokeepgoing.Tokeepriding.Notbecauseit'seasy,butbecauseit'stherightthingtodo.Theheatburns,thewindblows,andsometimestherainlashesdown.Thelandscapechangesfrombarrendeserttosteamyhumidity.Wesleepintents,undertrees,onoldfarms,inabandonedhuts–andsometimesontheground,withourbacksleaningagainstasaddle.Once,ononeofthosescorchinghotdays,anoldpickuptruckpullsup.Afarmerhandsustwoice-coldbottlesofCoca-Colathroughthewindowwithabroadgrin,justlikethat,withoutsayingmuch.Atthatmoment,thedrinkisthebestwe'veeverhad.Anothertime,Iwakeupinthemiddleofthenightwithmywholebodyitching.Tomyhorror,mybodyiscoveredwithblack,crawlingdots–overahundredticks!Lloyddoesn'thaveasingleone.Iburstintotears.Justwanttogiveup,don'twanttorideanyfurther.Contagiouscheerfulness